Treasure Hunting Part 1

They are out there...small, less heralded treasure sites you may never have heard of and most likely have not visited, unless you took the recommendation of a trusted friend and made the effort.  As a restless traveler myself, I can attest to the need to see the big sights, and by the time you get those taken in, you are too tired to go off the beaten track. So we stand in an endless line to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower, gather in a gaggle to see the Mona Lisa or the real statue of David, and fight the crowds to shop at Camden Market and watch the changing of the guard at Buckingham. It seems that popular destinations are popular for a reason. They are  usually magnificent and we can all share the same memories. Not a bad thing but it is not the whole picture. There are gems out there that can stand alone without the hype and without the pricey hotel, congested streets, and souvenir stands.

Now, I do not pretend to know everything or to have seen everything. Not even close.  But I have been lucky enough to visit a few places less travelled and I am so glad I did. True, there were some places I wish I had not visited, for whatever reasons, but I won't send you there... only to the interesting locales where the regional culture is preserved and celebrated and there are unexpected pleasures. They are not backwaters, just not on the conventional travel paths.  I confess here that I am rather Eurocentric, but not exclusively. We will start there.  Are you ready?

I was actually mocked when I suggested this destination to a tour leader who liked Italy best. He took high school kids on "language" trips to Italy and/or Spain because they had studied a little Latin or Spanish. I assure you that two or three years of Latin does not prepare a 16 year old to converse with the locals. Not that they would have to, as they all travelled in groups of about 20 kids on a bus, staying together throughout (the rules)... no wandering off to explore. I digress... I suggested that he look into taking the kids to Trier, in Germany, near France. He snorted and said, "What would the school board say if I said we wanted to see Germany?...".  Maybe it was a sneer. Regardless, I was dismissed.  Too bad for him, but let me explain myself.

Basilica of Constantine in Trier

Trier is situated in southwestern Germany on the Moselle River, just a few miles from Luxembourg and France.  It is Germany's oldest city. First settled in 2000 BC by an Assyrian prince, it flourished as a trade center, thanks in part to its location on the Moselle, near the Rhine and Saone rivers, with access to the North and all the way to the Mediterranean. In 16 BC, the Roman Emperor Augustus established the city as Roman.  By the third century, Diocletian had made Trier a Roman Imperial Residence and Capital of the Western Roman Empire.  At about the same time, Constantinople, now Istanbul, was  established as the seat of the Eastern Roman Empire by the Emperor Constantine.  Rome was on the ropes at that point, and the powers moved to safer territories, Trier and Constantinople.  Trier was called at various times, the "Second Rome" and "Rome before Rome was built".  Pretty impressive for a small town.  Constantine and his mother, Helena, now Ste. Helena, actively engaged in urban development to enhance the lush and rolling hills with impressive Roman edifices.  Constantine was also busy building in Constantinople and in Rome and Helena was gathering Christian artifacts.  The original Old St Peter's Basilica in Rome was built by Constantine and about the same time, he commissioned the Cathedral of St Peter in Trier, begun about 310 AD. Helena is said to have guided the placement of the bricks.  It is the oldest cathedral in Germany. The foundation persists from the early days but the cathedral has been rebuilt and enlarged through the ages. It reportedly holds the tunic that Jesus was wearing when he was crucified, displayed only on special occasions.  We thank Helena for her strivings that gave us this tunic.

The efforts of Constantine and his saintly mom have left Trier with the largest assembly of Roman buildings and relics north of Rome.  The Porta Nigra or Black Gate is the largest Roman gate north of the Alps.The Basilica of Constantine, or Aula Palatine, contains the largest extant hall in the world.  There are Roman Baths (Kaiserthermen) and the Barbara Baths, an amphitheater that could hold 20,000 spectators, and a history museum that has stunning mosaics and artifacts.  


To shut down the yawns at the thought of endless Roman artifacts, remember that Trier is Germany's oldest wine growing region, and under all of those magnificent and old buildings are magnificent and old wine cellars.  The dominant grape is Riesling but others grow there as well.  Along the Moselle and in town, you will find the stubes and heurigen that serve local wine and fare to keep you going and wanting to go back. Food is good, lovely onion tarts (flammekuche), zweibelkuchen, and wursts. 


Just so you don't think that I am driven by history and wine... Trier is a lively and modern city of about 100,000 people.. not too large or small. The land rises up from the river basins, providing great terrain for vineyards and photos.  Karl Marx was born there and his home is another attraction.  It is a short ride to the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.  It is close to the Maginot line in northern France, with its almost forgotten forts and monuments. Check out the historical city of Metz.  Trier is not far from the wonderful city of Strasbourg, on the Rhine, seat of the Council of Europe and the European Parliament, as well as the gateway to the Route de Vins of Alsace and an almost unknown German concentration camp, Le Struthof,  now a national memorial in the beautiful Vosges mountains across the Rhine from the Black Forest.  


But that is another story.  Back to Trier... why not consider it as a worthy destination, for school kids, adults, anyone curious about history and life.  I certainly was more comfortable there with my son than I was knowing he was haunting pizza parlors in Naples in a cluster of American kids.  Travel should not be a mad dash but a gentle and reflective opportunity to take in a different place.