Late Winter Clues

I took old dog for a little walk today.  It was a lovely sunny day after a string of gray and really cold days, so it seemed like a good time to get out. We never go far. Old dog begins the walk with enthusiasm and bounce but the end of the driveway, which is a long driveway by most measures, is about her limit and the walk back is slower and more labored than the walk out.  We are surrounded by fields and woods, so there is often not much to interrupt the flow of our walking, but today was different. The snow that fell a few days ago was crusty and dry and while most of the field to our east was unmarked, there was an area with a flurry of animal tracks, coming and going and sticking around to make a real impression. I am no wildlife biologist but I have seen enough tracks to recognize that the field had been visited by a rabbit or two, a squirrel, and a couple of canines, likeliest coyotes.  There was evidence of lots of canine sniffing and territory marking, especially around a couple of our little future Christmas trees. There appeared to have been frolicking, if coyotes frolic, and rolling in the snow and why not? Spring was in the air... even at -2 last night.  I don't think the coyotes caught the rabbit or squirrel because I think they were too engrossed in each other. They romped in a half dozen places, making circles in the snow, occasionally breaking the crust. Finally the tracks moved on but in such a funny way, not side by side or one after the other but leaving the most curious zigzagging trail. I think I know what it means, at least I am happy to think that I know.  Looking at the third picture, you may draw your own conclusion, and don't mind my footprints to the left of this picture.  This odd track carried on for about 30 feet, almost into the treeline, then it stopped and two sets of tracks took off in separate directions, then one stopped, reversed direction and followed the other set across the empty and otherwise unmarked field.   It was not a hard track to follow, but I guess I felt those coyotes deserved their rest, wherever they ended up.

I happen to like coyotes. I love hearing their calls in the dark of night. A coyote is a beautiful animal to watch when it is unaware of eyes upon it and it is moving smoothly across the field sniffing the air for mouse or vole.  A healthy coyote would perhaps make a magnificent pet but that is not meant to be. They are wild and should be left that way.  Somewhere there is a den and there will be little kits born there at the right time. The tribe increases for a while until someone decides to make war on the hilltop coyotes.  We will not interfere with their life out there. We will corral our chickens and call in the cats to keep them safe at night, and then we will leave the windows open when it gets a little warmer and listen for the yip and wail that calls to their friends to come and share what they have found.

This story brought back a memory from about a dozen years ago. Old dog was at that time a pup of about 9 months.  She had wandered down the field to the edge of the swamp when a young coyote emerged from the swamp. They approached each other slowly, stopped nose to nose with tails waving in the air, sniffed a bit, then both turned around and went home. We could almost see them smiling at each other, knowing they were cousins and happy to be in the same  neighborhood.  We should all be so peaceful.

Ugali, by golly or gunfo, by gum

Sometimes, life is so serendipitous as to be almost magical, especially when it is about something trivial and unexpected. Something like cornmeal and water.  How ordinary. I wrote about mamaliga in Moldova and described it as close kin to the Italian polenta.  Both are cornmeal boiled in water at a ratio of 1 part cornmeal to 2 parts water, with a little salt added, cooked to a satisfying density on the stove, then shaped, or sometimes baked, and eaten with sauce, cheese, or even as a breakfast porridge with sweeteners,  almost like grits, though the corn is processed into hominy in grits.  In all these examples,  corn is transformed into a simple traditional comfort food, widely consumed but each dish with a national or regional identity.

So imagine my aha moment when I ran across embedded traditions that are non-western but as ubiquitous in their own lands as mamaliga or polenta are in their respective national consciousness.  Cornmeal mush and its variations seems to rule the world.  In Kenya, it is known by its Swahili name, ugali.  It is found throughout Africa, at traditional tables from South Africa (mealie pap), the Congo (fufu), to West Africa (fufu corn). From there, trade and slavery carried it to the New World and the Caribbean region, where it is known as coucou in Barbados and funche in Curacao and other island cultures. So regardless of its names, cornmeal has fed many and continues to feed hungry populations around the world.

One might conclude that this cornmeal tradition is a kind of invasive species, like the Japanese beetle or an unintended consequence of the melting pot culture we celebrate in the USA. Actually, corn as we know it, or maize, was only introduced to the Old World by Hernan Cortes in the 16th century, brought back from his travels to Mexico, along with potatoes, tomatoes, and avocados, pineapple, and zucchini. The Old World brought the New World onions, garlic, and carrots.  Less benign exchanges included  smallpox from the Old World to the New World and syphilis from the New World to the Old World.  In the 21st century, we talk about "fair trade" but that notion was not a selling point in the Age of Exploration.  Still, the cornmeal pathway has come full circle, from Mexico to Europe to Africa and back to the Caribbean and some haute cuisine restaurants in New York, L.A., and points between and beyond.

We as New World people might want to pat ourselves on the back for bringing this hearty and hardy foodstuff to a hungry world, but we must remember that most of us mark our origins in the Old World, at least into the 16th century.  Before the arrival of maize, people (mostly peasants..mostly us) stewed up a variety of grains into mush as a staple of the diet outside the palace walls. Maize was added to the old European diet and became polenta and mamaliga, as well as chicken feed.  Within the palace walls, royalty added the fruits of trade with Eastern and New World cultures, incorporating chocolate and vanilla from Mexico and warm spices from India and the Middle East to make it all better. European missionaries and slave traders in Africa introduced maize as a foodcrop there, hence the development of corn-based porridges throughout the continent. The productivity of maize horticulture in the difficult soils and climates of Africa has fundamentally changed the cuisine of many African societies.

Meet Gunfo

But.... not all of Africa was colonized by European interests.  Ethiopia, an ancient kingdom and culture, was never successfully colonized, though the Italians tried. In Ethiopia, you will find a more ancient and embedded culture and cuisine than in colonized Africa.  There is maize but in Ethiopia, teff reigns, with barley, millet and legumes playing their traditional vital roles in feeding the highland culture.  Teff, a nutritious grain, is made into injera, a spongy pancake used with savory stews as daily fare. The cuisine is complex and delicious. Now, hubby and I lived in Ethiopia for two years and came to love the food. Somehow, we missed one of the staples, used mainly for breakfast, a porridge made from barley called "gunfo".  And this is where a silly serendipitous connection plays itself out...the gunfo connection, if you will.  Two years ago, I visited an Ethiopian friend, who took me to a traditional celebration for the birth of a baby. The women gathered and ate gunfo, a dense porridge shaped into a volcano like cone with deep wells for pools of niter kibbeh, clarified spiced butter, recipe to follow.

This food would strengthen the mother's back. It was different but good, if you like spices.  Then, child of ours in Peace Corps shared a blog by a volunteer in Ethiopia where he talked about gunfo which led to another blog by another PCV who discussed gunfo at length, both of them wishing for less of it.  I was puzzled, called my Ethiopian friend and got the recipe.  Exactly the same as mamaliga, polenta, and ugali, but using barley instead of corn.  I cannot give you the recipe for gunfo, except for the two ingredients. My friend could only tell me "small, small water, stir until very stiff". A Google search suggests the 1 part barley flour and 2 parts water of the other recipes. Try it if you are inclined. The signature flavor comes from the niter kibbeh and berbere'.  The barley mush conveys these complex additions nicely like mashed potatoes and gravy.

Niter Kibbeh

1 pound unsalted butter. Put in saucepan and melt slowly.

 Then add:
1 small onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, smashed
2 inches peeled sliced or minced gingerroot
4 cardamon pods, crushed slightly
1 3 " stick of cinnamon
1 teaspoon of fenugreek


Simmer this on lowest heat possible for one hour. Pour the clarified butter into a bowl, leaving the solids to be discarded. Refrigerate to store. You can use 2 cups of vegetable oil in lieu of butter, for vegans or fasting days, but butter is better...

This has been a long journey,  in words and distances.  It is funny how a small thing can make such a difference.

Treasure Hunting Part 1

They are out there...small, less heralded treasure sites you may never have heard of and most likely have not visited, unless you took the recommendation of a trusted friend and made the effort.  As a restless traveler myself, I can attest to the need to see the big sights, and by the time you get those taken in, you are too tired to go off the beaten track. So we stand in an endless line to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower, gather in a gaggle to see the Mona Lisa or the real statue of David, and fight the crowds to shop at Camden Market and watch the changing of the guard at Buckingham. It seems that popular destinations are popular for a reason. They are  usually magnificent and we can all share the same memories. Not a bad thing but it is not the whole picture. There are gems out there that can stand alone without the hype and without the pricey hotel, congested streets, and souvenir stands.

Now, I do not pretend to know everything or to have seen everything. Not even close.  But I have been lucky enough to visit a few places less travelled and I am so glad I did. True, there were some places I wish I had not visited, for whatever reasons, but I won't send you there... only to the interesting locales where the regional culture is preserved and celebrated and there are unexpected pleasures. They are not backwaters, just not on the conventional travel paths.  I confess here that I am rather Eurocentric, but not exclusively. We will start there.  Are you ready?

I was actually mocked when I suggested this destination to a tour leader who liked Italy best. He took high school kids on "language" trips to Italy and/or Spain because they had studied a little Latin or Spanish. I assure you that two or three years of Latin does not prepare a 16 year old to converse with the locals. Not that they would have to, as they all travelled in groups of about 20 kids on a bus, staying together throughout (the rules)... no wandering off to explore. I digress... I suggested that he look into taking the kids to Trier, in Germany, near France. He snorted and said, "What would the school board say if I said we wanted to see Germany?...".  Maybe it was a sneer. Regardless, I was dismissed.  Too bad for him, but let me explain myself.

Basilica of Constantine in Trier

Trier is situated in southwestern Germany on the Moselle River, just a few miles from Luxembourg and France.  It is Germany's oldest city. First settled in 2000 BC by an Assyrian prince, it flourished as a trade center, thanks in part to its location on the Moselle, near the Rhine and Saone rivers, with access to the North and all the way to the Mediterranean. In 16 BC, the Roman Emperor Augustus established the city as Roman.  By the third century, Diocletian had made Trier a Roman Imperial Residence and Capital of the Western Roman Empire.  At about the same time, Constantinople, now Istanbul, was  established as the seat of the Eastern Roman Empire by the Emperor Constantine.  Rome was on the ropes at that point, and the powers moved to safer territories, Trier and Constantinople.  Trier was called at various times, the "Second Rome" and "Rome before Rome was built".  Pretty impressive for a small town.  Constantine and his mother, Helena, now Ste. Helena, actively engaged in urban development to enhance the lush and rolling hills with impressive Roman edifices.  Constantine was also busy building in Constantinople and in Rome and Helena was gathering Christian artifacts.  The original Old St Peter's Basilica in Rome was built by Constantine and about the same time, he commissioned the Cathedral of St Peter in Trier, begun about 310 AD. Helena is said to have guided the placement of the bricks.  It is the oldest cathedral in Germany. The foundation persists from the early days but the cathedral has been rebuilt and enlarged through the ages. It reportedly holds the tunic that Jesus was wearing when he was crucified, displayed only on special occasions.  We thank Helena for her strivings that gave us this tunic.

The efforts of Constantine and his saintly mom have left Trier with the largest assembly of Roman buildings and relics north of Rome.  The Porta Nigra or Black Gate is the largest Roman gate north of the Alps.The Basilica of Constantine, or Aula Palatine, contains the largest extant hall in the world.  There are Roman Baths (Kaiserthermen) and the Barbara Baths, an amphitheater that could hold 20,000 spectators, and a history museum that has stunning mosaics and artifacts.  


To shut down the yawns at the thought of endless Roman artifacts, remember that Trier is Germany's oldest wine growing region, and under all of those magnificent and old buildings are magnificent and old wine cellars.  The dominant grape is Riesling but others grow there as well.  Along the Moselle and in town, you will find the stubes and heurigen that serve local wine and fare to keep you going and wanting to go back. Food is good, lovely onion tarts (flammekuche), zweibelkuchen, and wursts. 


Just so you don't think that I am driven by history and wine... Trier is a lively and modern city of about 100,000 people.. not too large or small. The land rises up from the river basins, providing great terrain for vineyards and photos.  Karl Marx was born there and his home is another attraction.  It is a short ride to the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg.  It is close to the Maginot line in northern France, with its almost forgotten forts and monuments. Check out the historical city of Metz.  Trier is not far from the wonderful city of Strasbourg, on the Rhine, seat of the Council of Europe and the European Parliament, as well as the gateway to the Route de Vins of Alsace and an almost unknown German concentration camp, Le Struthof,  now a national memorial in the beautiful Vosges mountains across the Rhine from the Black Forest.  


But that is another story.  Back to Trier... why not consider it as a worthy destination, for school kids, adults, anyone curious about history and life.  I certainly was more comfortable there with my son than I was knowing he was haunting pizza parlors in Naples in a cluster of American kids.  Travel should not be a mad dash but a gentle and reflective opportunity to take in a different place.

Let's Talk About Moldova and Meet Mamaliga....

First of all, when I mention Moldova, I generally get a blank look, like, did you just make that up? Actually, that was my reaction about 18 months age, before our youngest joined the Peace Corps and went there. Then I had to learn something new, including where to find it on a map. Born out of the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Moldova is a struggling nation, struggling to create a national identity, to feed itself, and to move forward. As a Scandinavian friend said when I mentioned the place, "the really Old Europe".  I had heard of Albania, Myanmar,  Lesotho, even Macedonia, but not Moldova. Bessarabia, Moldavia,  Romania all came to mind and all were linked to the place.  But now I know a little bit about Moldova, and I think when I named this blog "Closer to the Bone", Moldova was smoldering in my mind, as it is a place where people do live closer to the bone than we might be able to imagine.

As part of the Soviet Union, Moldova had access, in the 1970's and '80's to an influx of economic development funds and plans. With the dissolution of the USSR in 1991, Moldova was cut loose and cut off. The struggle began. Moldova was not without its strengths. The nation has fertile soil, a mild climate, and a hard working population. It is known for its wine production, not so much in the USA but in Russia and points east. Hubby and I were in B'ton Best Buy looking for a SmartPen and the fellow who helped us was from Poland. In the course of our conversation, he claimed that Moldova has the best wine in the world, better than Georgian wine, better than Armenian wine.  He ran down a mental list and France was about number 10 in terms of wonderful wines.  I accept his knowledge. I cannot argue with it.  According to our youngest, who has been there two years, the wine is great. Every house has a wine cellar and production of hundreds of liters of house wine. And then there are the wineries...Cricova, Purcari, Milestii Mici and more. Milestii Mici Winery has the world's largest wine collection, with over 2 million bottles and a cellar that runs for 250 kilometers. Who would have thought that?  Most production goes to the Russian Confederation, not the most dependable of consumers, but there you go. A lot of it is consumed right there in Moldova, which can boast the highest alcohol consumption in the world.

More to the point is the fact that Moldova struggles to gain a toehold in the modern world. Economic growth has been essentially negative and young people leave to go as guest workers to Italy, Belgium, Spain, England and the rest of Europe to make money to send home. Close to 40% of families rely on this source of money and it represents about 25% of the nation's annual budget. This influx helps families make improvements but still outhouses and wells are common outside of the cities and people cultivate their plots of land to have food to survive through the year. The gardening is not the hobbyist type. It is serious and important. Fruits and vegetables are preserved in many ways, including pickled watermelon and tomatoes.  Corn is grown to feed pigs, fowl, sheep, and people. Cheese is made in the home from the milk of cows and sheep.  Despite the poverty, there is culture and history and faith. The faith is Orthodox Christianity, having resisted the Ottoman onslaught. The history is proud and living, with Stephan the Great who ruled from 1457 to 1504 as a national hero. The culture is predominantly aligned with that of Romania but with strong Russian influences, thanks to the long association with Russia. The Romanian language is used with local tweaks, as Moldova was part of, dominated, and was lost to that nation. Now Moldovans use the Latin alphabet, the Orthodox calendar, and two languages, Russian and Moldovanesti, which is a dialect of Romanian. Our youngest, the Peace Corps Volunteer in Moldova, has learned Romanian/Moldovanesti and can hear the differences in dialects at this point, rather like hearing a southern accent against a yankee twang. In some communities, Russian predominates, all adding to the struggle to develop a true national identity in a country that has seen many invasions.  Union with Romania is a topic of conversation but only that, to date. And right now, Romania has its own issues.

So, maybe it is time to meet MamaLiga, the national dish of Moldova. You may already be familiar with a close, indeed, almost identical dish called polenta.  Cornmeal, of a finer sort than polenta, is boiled to thick consistency, then sliced, sauced, or just accompanying other dishes.  It is common in Romania as well, another link to that culture. Mamaliga is a staple in both countries, cheap and satisfying, a real peasant dish that has taken on the role of comfort food to the people of Moldova. Moldovan cuisine may also reflect the past Turkish and Slavic influences in its stuffed cabbage rolls, but mamaliga is the national dish.  Poftim, or  "that's that", as they say.

Just a final curious note: Romanian, and I include Moldevanesti here, is a romance language like Italian, French, or Spanish.  So a feast is a "masa" which is also a table.  To dance and to sing is "sa danseze si sa cante".  And they dance the hora, like many other eastern cultures. Here is a shout-out to crossroads and the marvelous infusions they produce. May the paths meet peacefully and with prosperity in Moldova.

Civilized at the Table

A long time ago, hubby and I found ourselves in a conversation with a fellow who declared to us that you could judge the level of a civilization  by considering table utensils. The conclusion according to the speaker was that our Western civilization was the most evolved because we used silverware to dine... you know, knives, forks and spoons, and where these utensils prevailed, we could certainly expect a higher level of cultural attainment.  The Orient had somewhat lower evolution as indicated by the use of chopsticks. The rest of the world was very base, in this fellow's opinion. Those people used fingers and maybe bread stuffs to get the food to their mouths, thus marking themselves and their societies as undeveloped, uncultured, and essentially unworthy. His words were "not civilized".

Clearly, there were issues with this argument, but as we were essentially en route to Peace Corps service in Ethiopia and would likely never see the guy again, we changed the topic.  Still, it rolled around in my head from time to time and now, 40 years later, comes out.  So, how do we measure civilizations?  Can we do this? Should we try?  Actually, I think the word "civilization" is inappropriate here, as civilization is defined as having common elements like advanced cities, complex institutions, record keeping capacity, specialized work, and advanced technology. (This last is a relative term) So certainly, our modern western  civilization qualifies, but so do the ancient civilizations of Machu Picchu,  Zimbabwe,  the Axumite Empire, and Babylonia, to name just a few.  Culture is different. Cultures reflect learned and shared symbols, including language, art, religions, and values...and food.  Civilizations rise and fall, cultures change and adapt, while reflecting ongoing social constructions and degrees of integration within the culture.  Many cultures may exist within any civilization.  To make this long story shorter, let me say that table behaviors and food traditions reflect  culture, not civilization. I personally prefer the concept of culture  over civilization. Culture is colorful, mutable, flavorful, and rich in learning opportunities at a human level. In a word, interesting.  Civilization is institutional. Enough said.

Food as a part of culture is one of those norms that is shared, though not necessarily in the same way by all. As Americans, we share a common food culture like hot dogs, corn on the cob, pizza, peanut butter, and so on. Then there are the sub-cultures that exist, including food traditions that come from the Old Country, or  some that enjoy a regional explanation. These latter might be New England vs. Manhattan clam chowder, or the apparently infinite variety of barbeque recipes that duke it out on Food TV.  As part of a shifting and dynamic society, we can explore foods and recipes and adjust our eating habits to a variety of influences and opportunities.

I need to return to the original idea... utensils.  I will make a leap here and contend that our choice of utensils, typically knife, fork, and spoon,  are perhaps manifestations of a broader cultural norm, that of our valued American tradition of Individualism, with a capital I.  We are a society that has perfected Individual Independence, not interdependence. We live in single family homes, in our nuclear families, celebrate the empty nest, and we do not eat off of each other's plates or even share the cookies very well.  Contrast that with communally structured traditional societies that see everyone in the community as family, share kitchens, and eat together, often from the same plate. And often there are no utensils, once the food is on the table. The pita, the nan, the injera, the tortilla all serve to move the meal to the mouth. How efficient, eating your utensils. Sure saves on the washing up. I think we also value the concept of community and we are genuinely generous as a nation. But culturally, we stick to our own plates and do not get our hands messy. Communal meals in America are called "potlucks" and I think we all harbor the secret wish that they only happen a couple of times a year because who knows what goes on in someone else's kitchen?

So there you have my simple thoughts on the utensil issue... We have them and use them. That does not make us a better society or culture than those that do not.  And we do not stick to this rule, either. We all eat with our fingers on a regular basis and will even share the bag of popcorn at the movies.  It is all food for thought.

a clearer picture... Not mine

Daily Kos: Global Food Disparity: A Photo Diary

www.dailykos.com


This feels like a lazy way to blog an idea, but check it out.. We need to see what is out there before we can make really rational choices.  More soon...

Welcome to the Feast

As Americans, we are blessed with food. We think about it,  grow it, share it, cook it, spend a lot of money on it, gorge on it... you get the picture. So, how did we get here and what is this obsession doing to us? As a nation, we are fatter than ever (I speak only for myself), do less cooking than ever, rely on stores and packaged goods for convenience sake, and blindly consume what is in front of us. I know some fussy eaters, but  fussy eaters these days may be the worst eaters of all. Instant mac and cheese has a place but does not make it as daily fare. And while we enjoy a easy access to a world of food products, somehow we do not seem to maximize the immense potential of our food opportunities.

In part, we are intimidated by the options out there. Will we measure up to Julia or even Julie? Rachael? Emeril?  Of course not. They enjoy a rarified environment and all the tools that allow them to create magnificence, and they probably do not have to wash up afterwards.  No, we can not compete there.

Then there is the time factor. I don't know about you but I cannot spend hours putting a meal on the table. Maybe that works once a month or so, but it won't happen even weekly, chez nous.. No Way.

Thirdly, let's think about money. In the US, we are calculated to spend less than 7% of our income on food. Canada is close behind us with about 9% of income going to the foodstore. Other countries as diverse as Kenya and the Ukraine spend between 40-50% of income to keep themselves fed.  Now, we can consider income as a contributor to this disparity. Certainly, $1 bunch of bananas is a smaller percentage of the average US income than that same $1 bunch in the average Kenyan household. So there is some wiggle room there for us, if we want to rethink our consumption function. Once upon a time, I might have been able to discuss elasticity of demand in a coherent manner, but that time has passed and I will not attempt to address it. Let me stop with the notion that many of us could pay more if we had to.

Or..imagine.. we could eat less.  In 1980, someone calculated that average caloric intake in the US was 2195 calories.  By 2005, it had popped up to 2704 calories.  The big bumps in consumption occurred in the categories of added fats, grains,  and added sugars, with smaller increases in the protein group. While we think of grains as good, in fact, we have developed a monoculture around wheat and corn without examining the impact of these limitations or what is actually  happening to them, thanks to science. Dairy, fruits, and vegetables enjoyed small ups and downs from year to year but no remarkable changes.  If you want to check my source of information, go to http://civileats.com/2011/04/05.  There is a ton of information there.

But I digress... I do not want to become a documenter of facts and factoids. I want to wander into the realm of re-thinking about food. I want to push away some of the habits, behaviors, and beliefs I have absorbed over the past many decades. I want to explore how other traditions relate to food, in many or most cases living "closer to the bone", without the added fat and sugar and gmo options that are epidemic in the US.  I warn you now.... the French paradox is done and documented.  This is not an international cooking blog.  It is not recipes and techniques.  It is ruminations on how the world eats and why...utensils vs fingers, communal vs plates, status vs non-status, homegrown vs store bought, and so on.  In some instances, I will have been there and done that, meaning I have eaten at a table in a far away place.  Sometimes, it will just be speculation, conjecture, or impressions.  We will see. I hope the journey is sweet... and not too short.